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Introduction
Jean-Jacques Rousseau
Engollon
Môtiers
Neuchâtel
Valangin
Môtiers Today In about the year 1772 the little village of Môtiers gained another two residents. Jean-Jacques Rousseau and his housekeeper (gouvernante) and mistress, Thérèse, who were running from authorities in France. Jean-Jacques had written a book espousing certain ideas that the French authorities did not find to their liking, and ordered Jean-Jacques' arrest. A woman offered him a refuge in Môtiers where she had a small apartment in which he and Thérèse could live. Môtiers was then under Prussian rule, and so a safe haven. Jean-Jacques accepted the invitation, set about changing the accommodations to his liking, and he and Thérèse moved in.
Môtiers was the kind of place that very much agreed with Jean-Jacques. The village was quiet, rural and close to mountains, forests and trails in which he could wander, which he was apt to do. Always the individualist and not afraid to stand out from the crowd in thought or practice he adopted the traditional costume of an Armenian, which he wasn't. In his free time, which he seemed to have plenty of, he spent time talking with the the villagers, walking the trails in the nearby forests, making lace, which he gave as little rewards to local women who chose to breast feed their infants, and continued his writing. The latter got him into more trouble. Inflamed by the preaching of a local pastor a group of angry villagers threatened the couple by throwing stones at their window. Jean-Jacques decided it was time to leave. Home of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Môtiers, Switzerland. Enlarge
Stairway to Home of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Môtiers. Enlarge The village of Môtiers has changed little from the 1770's. Many of the buildings are still standing from that period including the building in which Jean-Jacques and Thérèse lived. The water fountain, a stone's throw from their front door, still collects water in its basin, the local church still stands as do small bridges across which Jean-Jacques and Thérèse would have crossed. The natural area in which he wandered is still wooded and Môtiers and the surrounding area is still rural. Môtiers is still a quiet little village.
You can walk the streets where this 18th century individualist walked, and the trails he wandered in the hills, and visit the waterfall he could see from the village. [1] And, you can get an excellent idea of what a village looked like in the 1700s for the village still looks much the same. Bridge Over River, Môtiers, Switzerland. Enlarge
Bust of Philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Enlarge Jean-Jacques and Thérèse's apartment is now a little museum. In the building next to Rousseau's home and museum is an additional museum well worth your time. Many museums one might visit in Europe are big and grand, and house important collections of art and history. This little museum has important exhibits, also, if only because the museum's collections are not very well represented elsewhere. Here is an exhibit dedicated to the absinthe, that liquor, which until very recently, was outlawed because of its supposed potent effects. Another of the museum's rooms houses the shop of a horse collar maker. What was put in those big thick leather horse collars that draft horses wore, making it easier to pull heavy wagon loads? How were these horse collars fashioned, and what tools were used to make them? You can find out here, and you will never look at a horse collar the same way again. In the old days farmers in these mountains and valleys would make clocks in the winter months when there was less work to be done and more free hours. The museum preserves the workbench of a clockmaker, including his tools, and examples of handmade clocks.
You can drive to Môtiers from the town of Neuchâtel in less than 30 minutes or you can take a train which takes about 35 minutes. The train stops right on the edge of the village. The village main street, Grand Rue, is only two minutes walk away, and Rousseau and Thérèse's home is on a side street just another three minutes down the Grand Rue. If you continue down the Grand Rue passing Rousseau's side street you will come to hills and forests where Rousseau used to wander, and the waterfalls that captured his attention.

Big cities such as Paris and Geneva and Rome and bigger towns like Neuchâtel are certainly important, but these smaller villages are equally important in their own unique way for it is in villages and rural areas like this that most of the population of Europe once lived, and on which the the people in the cities and towns depended for food and other products. These little places are worth a visit for a fuller, more complete view of life in Europe now and in the old days.

[1]. In Jean-Jacques' day the area was clear of woods so he could see the waterfall from the village. Today you must walk a path through stands of trees to see the waterfall.

For Information on the Jean-Jacques Rousseau Museum in Neuchâtel
Figurine of Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Enlarge